Photojournalism with Photography Writer and previous The Times & Spectator contributor, Nicholas Mackey
A Story About A Journey
Let me tell you a story. It’s about a journey and, like all journeys, there’s a beginning which I’d like to share with you. Food and sustenance serve as the core ingredients of this tale but, as you will see, they have come to take on a significance that far outweighs their mere presence as words on the printed page. Let me explain.
The journey began some 40 years ago overseas in Saudi Arabia where I was working as an English teacher and freelance journalist. While based there, I struck up a friendship with Stuart, who was working as an advertising executive and, although a Londoner, had Turkish Cypriot heritage. A bond was struck, as both Stuart and I discovered that we came from island nations (Cyprus and Ireland respectively) which had been dominated by a certain colonial power that, at its zenith in the late 19th/early 20th century, held sway over a quarter of the earth: Britain –
hence, our common language English, even though our family roots were poles apart at either end of the European continent. Pax Britannica did reign supreme for a while but, like all empires, they fade away. But I digress.
In addition to both Stuart and I learning to navigate life as expatriates in the city of Jeddah on the Red Sea coast, I discovered that he took food far more seriously than I did. In addition, he was very much an exponent of ‘you are what you eat’ and was into healthy but delicious cuisine from a relatively young age. Stuart often spoke passionately about the culinary traditions of his family. I began to revisit my blasé attitude to what we put into our bodies by way of nourishment.
During those early formative years of our friendship, we discovered we also shared a common interest in exploring ideas. As the story goes, life pressed on, and our paths diverged with Stuart returning to the UK while I remained overseas. Both of us built our own careers, and we eventually started families of our own. First, it was I who tied the knot, and seven years later, Stuart followed suit. Children appeared and our lives took on a busy existence as our jobs and families occupied much of our time, but we stayed in touch.
Fast forward to early 2006 and Stuart and his wife reached out to my wife and I with an enticing invitation: to visit Turkey* for the first time. This gesture marked a turning point in my life, igniting a passion for Turkish culture, history, and, of course, cuisine.
A New Horizon: Türkiye
I couldn’t believe that my wife and I had gone through our lives without setting foot in this marvellous part of the world. But we’ve more than made up the deficit, as it has now become a firm fixture in our lives, as we’ve been most fortunate to be able to make an annual pilgrimage to Türkiye over the past 17 years. For me personally, it has opened up a world of wonders and Kalkan on the southern coast, near Antalya, where we often stay, has become
a vantage point to continue this fascinating journey of discovery.
Kalkan – A Vantage Point Of Discovery
Kalkan is a special place that has become our haven of harmony, where gentle breezes bearing the scents of wildflowers drift down the hillside, on their way to the wideness of the turquoise sea on the Lycian shoreline of southern Türkiye. For my wife and I, we’ve become accustomed to seeing fields nearby with a wealth of crops growing at all times of the year: lemons, grapes, figs, oranges, pomegranates, potatoes, peppers, olives, and much more are grown in the richly fertile soil of the region.
Kalkan, formerly the Greek fishing village of Kalamaki, was established in the early 19th century and became a thriving centre for fisheries and trade. Kalkan remained a remote spot on this part of the Turkish coastline and the only way to reach it was by use of the pathways or tracks over the mountains nearby, or via the sea as a road linking Kalkan to its near neighbours, the towns of Fethiye (to the west) and Kaş (to the east) were only constructed in the 1960s.
Exploring Turkish Cuisine
The cuisine of Türkiye is a mélange of flavours and traditions that have evolved over centuries. From the sizzling savoury food of kebabs and sujuk, to the fragrant sweet delights of baklava and künefe, Turkish food is
a celebration of the senses. It’s a cuisine where fresh ingredients, vibrant spices, and a rich culinary heritage come together to create a tapestry of tastes and aromas. As my wife and I have discovered to our joy, dining in Turkey is
Poison squill plant growing wild in the ancient city of Patara, capital of the Lycian League.
not just a meal; it’s a cultural experience that opens a window into the country’s rich history and traditions.
On our extensive travels around the country, we’ve discovered that one of the remarkable aspects of Turkish cuisine is how deeply it is intertwined with the country’s culture. Every dish tells a story, whether it’s the centuries- old tradition of making manti (Turkish dumplings) or the art of brewing strong Turkish tea.
Every region in Türkiye has its culinary specialties. In Istanbul, the bustling markets offer an array of street foods and local delicacies. In the southern coastal towns, fresh seafood takes centre stage. In the heart of Anatolia, dishes like testi kebab are slow-cooked in earthenware pots, infusing them with a unique flavour. Then further east in the city of Antakya (formerly Antioch) to add to this rich assortment of food offerings, there is tepsi kebab, an Antakyan speciality made from very finely chopped minced lamb with added onions, tomatoes, peppers, garlic and parsley.
But it’s not just the diverse and delicious food that lures us back to Türkiye each year. It’s the way food in this vast and incredible country becomes a feast for the senses. From the sight of colourful spice markets in the many towns and villages visited, to the distinctive sound of sizzling dishes in all manner of eating places, whether by the roadside or in a smart, upmarket restaurant such as the Firin-Ci, a very popular Diyarbakir restaurant, in the south-east of the country, which is actually a converted historical hamam under a dramatic domed roof.
Exploring Turkish Cuisine (contd.)
This reminded us of the Grand Hamam of Istanbul we had been to several years earlier. Not only that but there’s also the pleasure of freshly baked simit (sesame-crusted bread) the pleasure of freshly baked simit (sesame-crusted bread) accompanied by the taste of a hearty bowl of mercimek çorbası (lentil soup), every meal is a sensory delight.
Countless times have I remarked that apples, pears, oranges, cherries, tomatoes, pomegranates, bananas (yes, bananas grow in Türkiye), melons, cucumbers, carrots, parsley, thyme, and so many more fruit and vegetables taste as they should unlike the anaemic blandness of fresh produce I have become accustomed to from supermarkets.
An alternative lunch or dinner that we like are mezes, which are always eaten slowly together, sitting around a table with family and friends. Before you know it, several hours would have drifted by as you eat, drink and talk – while also attempting to solve the problems of the world. We would often skip the main course, as the mezes can be satisfying in themselves. A typical meze menu would consist of: humus; shepherd salad; roasted aubergine and peppers; drained yogurt and mint spread – known as haydari; feta and haloumi cheeses; black and green olives; mercimek köftesi (red lentil patties); fava beans puree; babagannuş (pureed eggplant and tahini dip) plus many more, depending on what region of the country you are passing through.
Much More Than Food And Sustenance – A Tapestry Of History
Beyond the many culinary adventures I have experienced, my regular visits to Türkiye have uncovered a treasure trove of history and archaeology. There’s no doubt about it, the entire region is a living testament to an incredibly richand diverse past, with ancient ruins, historical sites, and architectural wonders scattered across the length and breadth of the country. When you look at Türkiye as a whole, there are 704 archaeological sites dotted around the country according to the website, https://archiqoo.com/sites/Türkiye.php although I feel there may be many more.
Then, as you speed along the highway, you will regularly pass the eye-catching brown roadway signs which point to these sites of antiquity. But there are also such places which are not indicated, and you must then rely on local knowledge to ferret out these hidden-away locations of age-old remains: one local example is the 2,000 year-old Delikkemer Aqueduct constructed at various intervals by the Lycians, Greeks and Romans which is only 101⁄2 km (61⁄2 miles) from our idyllic Kalkan.
Türkiye's heritage is a rich tapestry woven from countless threads, each represented by a different civilisation that has called this land home. From the ancient Hittites, Lycians, Assyrians, Greeks, Romans and the mighty Byzantine Empire to the grandeur of the Ottoman Empire, the layers of history are visible in the architecture, art, and artefacts found throughout the country. The historical marvels of Türkiye have left an indelible mark on me, inspiring me
to discover more, not only about history and archaeology, but also to further my knowledge about humanity. My wife and I have often travelled in the company of Stuart and his wife on these ‘voyages of discovery’ which has added to the enjoyment of the experience.
Conclusion
From my Turkish experience, food and sustenance are not confined to the act of eating and drinking; they encompass the essence of culture, history, and the enduring bonds of family and friendship. Through this journey, I have come to realise that Turkey is a country that offers sustenance for both the body and the soul. It is a land where culinary treasures are intertwined with historical wonders, where the past and the present coexist harmoniously, and where my wife and I have found a home away from home. These annual trips to Türkiye, originally inspired by Stuart’s most generous invitation, have transformed into a lifelong exploration of a country that continues to inspire, surprise and nourish. The journey continues. With relish.
*Turkey: In December 2021, the government of Turkey officially changed its name to Türkiye, stating at the time that this would “better represent Turkish culture and values”.
Copyedits made by the Editor.
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